20457 Hafencity Gin

About this bottle

20457 Hafencity Gin is an agency gin. Hang on, though. Not that kind of agency gin. René worked as an art director in the agency world, so in a sense he's the agency himself. Just not the stereotypical agency type. He's passionate about design, though, and everything from the choice of paper to the smallest design detail gets special attention. A pleasure for the buyer's eyes, too.

It started with an event and a little copper still

It began one evening when René and some colleagues got together to explore distillation. Everyone enjoyed it, but René set about distilling everything he could get his hands on: herbs, fruit, grass. He distilled and distilled until he had around 150 distillates, then started combining them to see what worked together.

Botanicals: endless combinations

After a long series of mixing experiments, he started working on a gin, originally as a personal gift for friends. Unfortunately, it turned out too well. Everyone thought he really ought to produce it, and not just one bottle at a time. There are only so many times you can say no to friends. Once he'd used those up … well, that was the birth of Hafencity Gin. So, children, never do something too well, or you'll lose control of the situation ;)

The gin is made in small batches. It macerates for four days before being distilled in the London Dry style in a 200-litre copper still. At 41% ABV it isn't particularly strong, but its aroma is still intense.

Recipe and botanicals

René had to do a little searching to recreate the original recipe from his small still on a larger scale. In the end, the knowledge of aromas he'd gained through his own experiments helped him work successfully with the distillery that now produces it for him.

What should a Hafencity gin taste like?

From the outset, the idea behind the botanicals was to reflect the harbour. As a centre of international trade, where coffee, tea, spices, carpets and other goods were still stored duty-free just a few years ago, it was an obvious starting point. A new neighbourhood now occupies the site, but the Speicherstadt remains part of HafenCity, reminding visitors of that history. Makrut lime leaves bring aromas of distant places, while classic gin botanicals such as juniper, cubeb pepper and angelica root join nutmeg and a few secret ingredients to complete the selection.

Tasting

Nose

The gin opens softly on the nose, followed by freshness. Not spruce or lemon, more like Buddha's hand. It's hard to describe precisely: fresh, yet earthy at the same time. Chamomile probably softens some of the kick, while juniper and pepper bring it back. Very complex overall, yet relatively light. Let's see how it develops in the glass.

Palate and finish

Very nicely, as it turns out. Juniper and pepper soon catch up with the makrut lime leaves and orange. Once the first burst of heat fades, a gentle aromatic character remains, slowly circling the lime. Then more botanicals take the stage. Beautifully orchestrated flavour from start to finish.

The aftertaste is moderately long and intense, although makrut lime and earthy notes linger a little longer. That part can last quite a while. It's one reason I wouldn't drink endless servings of this gin. Eventually, the lingering flavour becomes too much for me, but the first two G&Ts are excellent.

With ice

The meltwater takes the edge off the juniper and pepper. The gin becomes a little sweeter and less angular. It's still an intense experience for the taste buds, even at a relatively low alcohol level.

Verdict

Still reeling from the words 'agency gin'? Sorry. I think it's clear by now that this isn't the usual example of that category. René has since launched several more varieties, and another project with the makers of HHZanzibar Gin has taken shape. To me, that's ample evidence that this is more than a marketing exercise. Don't just buy it as a souvenir from Hamburg.

Hafencity Gin, from Hamburg's 20457 postcode area, is a neighbour a little way up the Elbe. Over the past 20 years, HafenCity has probably seen the city's most dramatic changes, including a new addition to the skyline in the shape of Hamburg's Elbphilharmonie landmark. With the GinGinGin studio just one ferry stop away in neighbouring postcode 20459, our neighbourhood gin-testing programme obviously had to take a look.